13 June 2009

Giles Deacon

His career was launched when Bottega Veneta employed him, based on a drawing of a budgerigar driving a Rolls-Royce.
My design inspirations? Elsa Schiaparelli, Miuccia Prada, Coco Chanel and Mr Millets. He does a great tent, out of which you can make a really good cagoule, in army green. He’s an undiscovered couture master of the cagoule.
Super, smashing, great. Those are the three words I would choose to describe my style. Like Jim Bowen from Bullseye. No, he’s not my idol.
Deacon studied at Central St Martins College of Art and Design, alongside his former girlfriend and influential stylist Katie Grand and designers Alexander McQueen and Luella Bartley.
After leaving university, Deacon designed for high fashion houses as diverse as Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Louis Vuitton before starting his own label, Giles, in 2003, and being named British Fashion Designer of the Year 2006 at the prestigious British Fashion Awards, an award previously won by the likes of John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood.
Deacon also designed a range for the British high street store New Look called 'Gold'. Model Agyness Deyn and Drew Barrymore both starred in advertising campaigns for the rang. A menswear range for New Look followed in 2008.
Ever since his groundbreaking debut in 2004, British designer Giles Deacon has fine-tuned his vision of high craft mixed with a steady stream of wit. He spent time at the Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci studios, among others, and he’s honed his knack for mixing superior craftsmanship with whimsical irreverence. One of the hottest tickets on London runways, Giles dabbles with unlikely proportion and padding, wild prints, and pop-culture references that range from Poe to Peter Saville. As his style matures, he’s transitioning from editorial to wearable, and retailers are watching.
Name three things that are inspiring you for autumn/winter 2009: “Drawing, auction houses and the British Museum.”
What are your design signatures? “Statement, playful, confidence-giving clothes.”
Who is your ideal client? “Elizabeth Saltzman.”
Over the last 25 years, London has built a reputation for outstandingly original fashion. What is it about the capital that makes London fashion so unique? “London is one of the most culturally alcoholic cities in the world. My favourite tipple is a museum and tonic.”

Extract from an article in The Independent (Feb 2007)

"Giles Deacon seems a million miles away from the ferociously ambitious, straight-out-of-college, up-and-coming designer that this country in particular is known for. Of course, he is, in his own way, at the heart of fashionable London and has been ever since he graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1992, collaborating with his friend Fi Doran on the label Doran Deacon during the 1990s, contributing illustrations to Dazed and Confused and art-directing album covers for the folk singer (and former girlfriend) Beth Orton. But Deacon, 37, is also determinedly eccentric and there is something strangely satisfying about the fact that this tall, bespectacled character, with his dulcet Cumbrian tones, is today the toast of the British fashion capital. Deacon, for all his idiosyncratic ways, has delivered the show of the London season, every season, for the past three years. What's more, it was announced at the end of last year that the designer had been appointed to breathe new life into the classic British tailoring label, Daks. He will show his first womenswear collection for that brand in Milan later this month. Then there's the launch of a clothing and accessories collection for the high-street retailer New Look to consider, and the range of bags produced in collaboration with Mulberry and embellished with oversized studs in silver and gold."
"When asked to describe Deacon's signature, Grand says: "I don't think his woman is much of a wallflower. We always knew it would be something quite flamboyant.""
""It's not a difficult aesthetic," Deacon, for his part explains. "My designs are slightly subversive in their way; it can be in the cut, or the colour, but they're always obtainable, they're not so difficult that a 40-year-old woman wanting to go to a cocktail party looking foxy and a little bit different in something well-made would be alienated by them. It's all a learning process for us and we try to make it better, to make things look more beautiful, every season. Hopefully, if you saw someone wearing one of our frocks you'd think she looks quite interesting to have a chat with and say hello to. They're a bit 'We're on, we're out, we mean business'.""

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